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| Technology | SXRD | ||
| Resolution | 1920 x 1080 pixels | ||
| Brightness | 1000 lumens | ||
| Contrast | 30 000:1 | ||
| Lamp life | NC h | ||
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| Sound level | 25 dB |
| Price of lamp | € |
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Test date: February 06, 2009

Remember, our objective here is to get as neutral an image as possible. Along with a colour temperature of 6500K and a smooth progression through grey tones.
Note that with the default settings, the lamp is not in economy mode. To activate eco mode, you first need to go to Cinema Black Pro and select lamp command: low. Next go to advanced menu settings and set the gamma at 3, the darkest setting. Not ideal as it tends to make the image a bit dark, but it’s the best we could get.
For temperature colour, we struggled to do much better than the “low” default setting, in terms of getting our 6500K. We chose the following: Gain R 30, G -4, B -30; Polarisation R -2, G 0 and B 2. With these settings, colour temp oscillates around 7500K. I brought brightness down to 44/45 so as to improve the darker areas.
Wide or normal colour space? Definitely normal. This mode gives much more natural and neutral colours. Wide mode makes tones explode and denature the image completely. Ideally, there’d be an intermediary setting.
Handling, ergonomics
The connectivity, usually at the back, is on the side of this projector (on the left if you’re looking from the front). I’m not sure this is an advantage. I prefer the Mitsubishi solution with the HC6500 casing that advances and covers where the cables come in when the projector is placed high-up.
Projected image
Lets start with the settings. Although they are detailed in the inset I do want to come back to them briefly. We didn’t manage to get a warm image (tendency to reds). Whatever the settings chosen, we still ended up with an image with a colder tinge (blues/violets). In practice this makes white skin a little pinker and dark skin darker. The image below illustrates this (as well as upscaling that we talk about in the following paragraph).
Among the strong points on the Sony, we should underline the upscaling from SD sources. The final image is a little less sharp than with the Panasonic or Mitsubishi, however the diagonal lines in movement are better defined and less pixellised. To accentuate the sharpness, you can still increase this parameter in the image settings menu. Careful not to force it too far, otherwise you’ll get faces with overly marked traits. A happy medium is 10. Detail in the lightest white zones is well-managed and the video noise well-controlled, even if it has to be said that Sanyo is far ahead of the rest on this point. Lastly, the overall intensity of the image is good.
Natural or dynamic image?
Not a simple choice. After having tested over 90 projectors, I have to say that my choice is rather for the natural image. I don’t really go for a sensational image and prefer a natural result, even if this means that it seems subdued in comparison. Opinion is however clearly divided here at editorial – borne out by blind testing. A great number of the votes went for the Mitsubishis and Panasonic, with brighter more dynamic images. Only a few of us, among whom was our giant of a photographer Renaud, noticed that these models gave a slightly over-bright result and went for the Sony and Sanyo.
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Very ergonomic
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Quiet
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Very good upscaling
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Good handling of light whites
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Nice to look at
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High stand-by energy consumption
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Difficult to manage colour temp for warm tones
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Video noise better managed by Sanyo
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Cold image






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